The main graveyard in Sarajevo. The odd-looking thing sticking up from the hill is a television transmission antenna, built to survive World War III, as the story would have it. It doesn't look particularly sturdy, but it survived Serb shelling during the war. Driving towards Novi Travnik.

On the M-18 out of Sarajevo.

This is the first of several pictures from Ahmici. During the war, 110 Bosnian Muslims were massacred here, and their homes set aflame. Here are a few links about Ahmici:

• http://www.untangling.com/Images/ahmici/ahmici.html
• http://gbgm-umc.org/units/umcor/bosnia/bhouse.stm
• http://www.linder.com/berserk/blaskic.html

Ahmici. Adem says that one can gauge the areas that have seen the worst destruction by the new roofs on the houses.

The destroyed Ahmici mosque.

The Novi Travnik marketplace on a bright autumn Sunday.

Drinking coffee at the 'Caffe Dream' in Novi Travnik.

Apartment buildings in Novi Travnik.

An early-afternoon mist rises above the outskirts of Novi Travnik.

Traditional Bosnian houses, in the countryside. Near Novi Travnik.

These are "stecak", ancient Bosnian tombstones, some dating back to the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Adem interprets the stecak on the right as having three planets surrounding the main figure, who is standing above a crescent representing the moon. The five extrema of the figure represent a pentagram or star.

More stecak.

Adem identifies the cross on the stecak above as being a cross of the Knights Templar.

And now to descend into the womb of the earth ...

So Adem, his brother, and I went spelunking near Novi Travnik. Amazingly enough, some of the pictures came out. I drank some of the crystal-clear water you see there in the last picture -- through my fancy American water-purifier bottle, naturally. I think my quote was "hmmm ... tastes like water."

On the M-5 back to Sarajevo.